Feast by Anissa Helou

Author:Anissa Helou
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: HarperCollins
Published: 2018-04-05T04:00:00+00:00

Wheat and Meat “Porridge”

H’RISSEH

LEBANON

H’risseh, harissa, or h’riss in the Arab world, keskek in Turkey, bokoboko in Zanzibar, or haleem in Pakistan, India, and Iran—these are all different names for more or less the same dish made with meat and grain (and in the case of haleem, also legumes) that is slow-cooked for so long that the ingredients dissolve into a thick porridge. In Lebanon, h’risseh is served at ‘Ashura, the tenth day of the month of Muharram marking the death anniversary of the Prophet’s grandson, Hussein bin Ali, as an alms dish to share with those less fortunate. Its origins are reputed to go back to the sixth century during the time of Persian king Khosrow. The Muslims discovered it when they conquered Persia some hundred years later, and as with Tharid, it became a favorite of the Prophet’s. In Iran it is eaten for breakfast, in India it is street food, in Pakistan it is served at main meals, usually lunch, and in Lebanon, Syria, and Turkey, the same.

It can be made with either chicken or lamb. Ideally, you should cook the meat on the bone, then take it out to discard the bones before returning it to the pot. On the street in India, they cook, bone, and mash the meat before adding it to the grain and legumes. The recipe changes from one country to another, with Pakistan and India using a lot more spices, whereas the Levantine version is fairly plain. Also it is one of those seminal Muslim dishes that is associated with both ‘Ashura and Ramadan. For instance, in Lebanon, h’risseh is prepared in huge vats during Muharram to give out to those in need, as well as to neighbors, family, and friends. In the Gulf, h’riss is an essential dish during the month of Ramadan, and in some mosques you will find hugh pots of h’riss in the courtyard ready to serve to whomever wishes to have some. I give recipes for two other versions: Pakistani/Indian Haleem and Persian Haleem.

SERVES 4 TO 6

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